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WHAT FINISH IS
THE BEST FOR WOOD FLOORS? |
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The finishes on
the market today are all good finishes, however, your life style and
specific needs may dictate the best finish for you. |
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THE DIFFERENCE
BETWEEN SOLID WOOD FLOORING AND ENGINEERED WOOD FLOORING |
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Each have their
specific uses and is dictated by your lifestyle and specific needs.
Solid wood flooring can be used on grade and above grade, but not
below grade. Solid wood should be in a moisture-controlled
environment. Solid wood strip or plank is nail down only and requires
a wood subfloor. Solid wood parquet can be glued to a variety of
subfloor materials.
Engineered wood
flooring consists of a multi-plied, cross-stacked backing with a
veneer top layer of a selected species. Engineered wood flooring can
be used on grade, above and below grade. Engineered wood flooring is
more dimensionally stable so it can be installed in areas where solid
wood is not compatible due to moisture. Engineered strip, plank and
parquet are glue down applications over various subfloor materials.
Some engineered strip and plank can be nailed down which requires a
wood subfloor. Engineered includes floating floors where the tongue
and groove are glued together, but the floor is not anchored to the
subfloor. |
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THE DIFFERENCE
BETWEEN LAMINATE FLOORING AND WOOD FLOORING |
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Laminate flooring
consists of synthetic backing with a high-pressure laminate surface.
Laminate is not renewable and therefore has a short usable life span.
Wood
flooring consists of wood backing with wood wear surface or solid
wood. Wood flooring with proper care will last generations. Wood
floors can be refinished, re-sanded, and re-coated to look like new. |
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CRACKS. IS THIS
NORMAL? |
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Because wood is a
natural product it will react to changes in its environment the floor.
The most common causes of separations are Mother Nature and dryness.
The loss of moisture results in the most frequent reason for shrinkage
of individual pieces and cracks. Most cracks are seasonal - they
appear in dry months, or the cold season when heating is required, and
close during humid periods. This type of separation and close is
considered normal. In solid 2 ¼" wide strip oak floors, "dry time"
cracks may be the width of a dime's thickness (1/32nd").
Wider boards will have wider cracks and the reverse is true. The cure
is to minimize humidity changes by adding moisture to the air space
during dry periods. A constant Relative Humidity (RH) of 50% with a
temperature of 65-75 degrees (Fahrenheit) provide stability to the
floor. |
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CUPPING |
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Cupping, or
"washboard". Across the width of one piece of the flooring
material, the edges are high, the center is lower. Generally develops
gradually.
CAUSE:
Moisture imbalance
through the thickness is the only cause. The material was
manufactured flat and was flat when installed. Job site or occupant
provided moisture is greater on the bottom of the piece than on the
top. Find the source of moisture and eliminate it. Common moisture
sources and their corrections are: Airborne Relative Humidity-
dehumidify air space or- humidify air space during the heating season;
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Wet basement -
ventilate, dehumidify;
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Crawlspace -
total groundcover with black plastic 6 mil; vents; add exhaust fan
on timer;
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Rain handling
provisions - correct to drain away from house;
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Reduce excessive
lawn & garden moisture, waterproof foundation;
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Repair leaks,
i.e. plumbing, roof, doors;
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Don't hose
patio,
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In kitchen, the
dishwasher and icemaker are notorious leakers.
Expansion is also
the result of site moisture and may have moved the floor tight to
vertical surfaces. If so, remove flooring along the wall, or saw cut,
to relieve pressure.
CURE:
Allow time. Time
for the corrections to take effect - to permit the floor to improve on
its own. It may become acceptable After stabilized, sand flat and
finish. |
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THE ACCEPTABLE
GUIDELINES FOR THE APPEARANCE OF THE FINISH OF A WOOD FLOOR |
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Inspection should
be done from a standing position with normal lighting.
Glare, particularly from large windows, magnifies any irregularity
in the floors and should not determine acceptance.
No matter how hard
the professional tries or how well experienced they are, there are
some things you should not expect.
A tabletop finish.
Each piece of wood flooring sands differently depending on its grain
type (plain or quartered) making it virtually impossible for a
completely flat surface.
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Dust-free
finish.
Since your floor is being finished in your home it is not possible
to achieve a "clean room" environment. Some dust will fall onto
the freshly applied top finish.
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A
monochromatic floor.
Wood, as a natural product, varies from piece to piece. Remember
it is not fabricated - it is milled from a tree and will have
grain and color variations consistent with the grade and species
of flooring selected.
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A floor that
will not indent.
In spite of the tern "hardwood", wood flooring will indent under
high heel traffic (especially heels in disrepair). The finish that
is applied will not prevent the dents.
Again, when
inspected from a standing position these irregularities may be present
but should not be prominent. |
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SANDING THE FLOOR |
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There are four (4)
pieces of equipment, edger, belt sander, drum sander, and buffer.
There are up to five (5) different grit patterns that must be selected
depending upon finish and/or condition of the floor as well as the
species. It is strongly recommended that you contact your local wood
flooring professional for sanding and finishing. Doing the job
yourself could cause irreparable damage to your wood
floor. |
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THE
ADVANTAGES/DISVANTAGES OF PREFINISHED AND UNFINISHED (SITE-FINISHED)
WOOD FLOORS? |
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PREFINISHED
ADVANTAGES:DISADVANTAGES:
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Little or no
color variation Surface not as smooth
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Factory
controlled finish + limited colors available
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Faster
Installation Limited custom options
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Dust & Odor free
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Immediate use
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Easier to Repair
UNFINISHED (SITE
FINISHED)
ADVANTAGES:DISADVANTAGES:
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Custom color selection, Longer time to install & finish
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Continuous Finish Dust & odors
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Smoother Surface Not as easy to repair
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More
custom option |